Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Chameleon Color Tones Pencils Review Let the Journey Begin


This card features a fun image by Dreamerland Crafts, Let the Journey Begin. I chose this for a friend who just finished his PhD. It's the perfect image for starting a new journey. The Tim Holtz metal word band works well as the sentiment for the front of the card.

Also included is a video with a review and comparison of the new Chameleon Color Tones colored pencils, by Chameleon Pens. I compared them to Faber Castell PolychromosPrismacolor and Jane Davenport Magic Wand colored pencils. Further down in the post is a more detailed written review plus images. In addition to the review in the video, you can watch a speed coloring of the card's image. Chameleon Color Tones colored pencils are made in Austria by Breviller, a company with over 150 years experience producing artist quality pencils. Watch to see how they stack up against two of the top colored pencils in the industry plus a fairly newcomer.

Note: all pencils in post/video were purchased by me personally. It would have been nice to get free product though. Sigh.

Affiliate links may be included in this post. See Notice at bottom of blog. I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. There is no cost to you.

Making the Card

1. Cut red cardstock 5 1/2 x 8 1/2 inches; fold in half to form a 4 1/4 x 5 1/2 inch card base. Cut blue cardstock 3 3/4 x 5 inches. Cut blue gingham cardstock 3 1/2 x 4 3/4 inches (Doodlebug Design Gingham-Linen Rainbow Petite Prints 6x6). Adhere blue gingham to blue cardstock. Do not adhere to card base yet.

2. Stamp Let the Journey Begin (Dreamerland Crafts) on white cardstock with a black ink that will work well with colored pencil. I used Memento Tuxedo Black ink. Color the image with colored pencils. Use a light hand, in a circular motion; build up the color slowly in layers. Watch the video below for speed coloring as well as a review of the Chameleon Color Tones pencils I used for this image. There is a review summary with more detail further down in this post.


3. Die cut image using largest die in Spellbinders Classic Squares Small set. I recommend first cutting a scrap sheet and using the outside piece to frame the image. Once the image is perfectly framed, place the die inside the frame, being careful not to move it.. Trace the top edges lightly with pencil so you can use them as guide lines for the die. Remove the scrap and replace the die lining it up with the pencil lines. Use removable tape to hold the die in place while die cutting (try not to put the tape on the colored image). Erase pencil lines after cutting.


4. Die cut Red Flash Glitter Silk cardstock with largest die in Spellbinders Classic Squares Large set. Use dimensional tape to adhere image to glitter piece.

5. Cut a length of seam binding, enough to go across card and wrap around edges plus some for the knot on the front. Dye ribbon using Barn Door Distress Stain or Distress Ink. Let dry. Thread through Metal Word Band. Wrap ends around blue gingham matted piece near top as shown so that the metal band is closer to the left side; adhere ends to back. Adhere panel to card front. Loop other piece of dyed seam binding under right side and tie in a little knot. Trim ends at an angle.

6. Adhere stamped panel to card at slight angle as shown. Adhere enamel dots.

7. Die cut Congrats from black cardstock (Hero Arts Stamp & Cuts). Adhere to card inside where shown. Stamp "you did it!" in black below the "ats" of Congrats. Optional: stamp "enjoy the journey" at the bottom in black ink. Note: I didn't realize the Compass Blueprint set had been retired by Sizzix. I managed to find a few on Amazon. Tim Holtz also makes many similar "enjoy the journey" stamps.


Review of Chameleon Color Tones Pencils

I compared Chameleon Color Tones Pencils to Faber Castell Polychromos pencilsPrismacolor pencils, and Jane Davenport Magic Wand pencils. I emailed the first two companies to find out whether they were oil based or wax based since I couldn't find that information in their packaging or on their websites. Both companies told me they are wax based, thus the Faber-Castell Polychromos are the only oil based pencils, the other three are wax based.

The Chameleon Pens company website says this about Chameleon Color Tones pencils:
  • They come with 25 Pencils / 50 colors (one on each side)
  • They are artist quality, made in Austria 
  • The colors are highly pigmented and intense with an ultra smooth consistency
  • The colors are permanent
  • The pencils have break resistant 3.8mm lead
  • They come pre-sharpened 
Before going over these points in more detail, I will explain a few color theory terms:
  • Hue is synonymous with color; it is the pure color, e.g. red, blue, green, etc.
  • Shade is the color mixed with black. This increases darkness, making the color darker.
  • Tint is the color mixed with white. This increases lightness.
  • Tone is the color mixed with gray (i.e. black and white).
  • Value refers to the lightness or darkness of a color.
  • Saturation is the intensity of the color - the strength and vividness (often referred to as pigmented, more pigment = stronger color)
  • Warm colors are basically those from yellow to red on the color wheel.
  • Cool colors are basically those from green to violet on the color wheel.
Note that a brown (usually considered a warm color) or gray (usually considered a cool color) can be viewed as warm or cool depending on their mixtures. For example, a warm brown or gray will contain more yellow or red whereas a cool brown or gray will contain more blue.

Spice (L)/Ginger (R)
Chameleon Color Tones come with 25 double-ended pencils, giving you 50 colors. The colors are coordinated, with one end darker and the other in a lighter "matching" color. The idea is that these colors can be used together for blending and smooth transitions - you don't have to look for the matching color, it is right on the other end of the pencil. This might not work quite as well as it sounds since the coordinating colors are not all the same hues.

Caribbean Sea (L)/Bay Blue (R)
Although Chameleon pencils include "Tones" as part of the name, they are not actually tones. A tone would have gray added to the pure color, not other hues. For example, pencil 4 with Spice and Ginger: Spice is more cool/blue (leans violet), whereas Ginger is more warm/yellow (leans orange). In practice shaded areas do tend to have more blue and lighted areas more yellow, so this might not be an issue for you. But then look at pencil 16 with Caribbean Sea and Bay Blue: the former contains more yellow, making it a warmer hue than the Bay Blue even though it is the darker of the two. There are several colors I wouldn't use to blend with their counterparts. (Note: the colors samples are a simulation - these will vary depending on your monitor.)

In general, you may find the color pairings work better for some images than others. But you can always mix other colors to achieve the look you want. Most of the colors mixed and blended well; the colors went on fairly smoothly. The biggest advantage of the doubled ended pencils for me is their portability. Instead of carrying 50 pencils, I can carry 25 but still get the same number of colors.


It should be noted that the paint color on the pencil casing is only to be use as a general guide for color. As with most colored pencils, the outside may vary somewhat from the actual color. I recommend making a swatch sheet, with gradients of each color (i.e. color by pressing harder on one side then ease up as you go so the swatch will have more pigment one one side and less on the other - dark to light).

Chameleon Color Tones seem to be harder than the other three, which might be why they are break resistant, but may crumble slightly when coloring. The crumbled bits are fairly small; the problem is that if you are coloring and don't notice the bits, then go over one, it will make a dark spot on the paper. Keep a brush handy to sweep away bits as you color. Prismacolors are prone to crumbling as well but in larger pieces - I haven't had the same problem.

Chameleon Color Tones are made in Austria by Breviller, a company with over 150 years experience producing artist quality pencils. Most artist quality pencils are lightfast, but no lightfast ratings are listed on their website and usually this is a huge selling point with artist grade pencils. I contacted the company for lightfast ratings but they don't have any at this point. Lightfastness is how resistant the colors are to changing when exposed to light; if colors are not lightfast, they are prone to shifting and fading. They are fine for sketchbooks that won't get much exposure to light. If you are planning to display your artwork, I recommend either using UV filtering glass/Plexiglas and maybe even coating them with a UV filtering spray or scanning/photographing your artwork then printing it.

The company claims the colors are permanent but don't specify how. Maybe they are referring to how difficult the pencils are to erase (staining), especially when not applied lightly. Note: most color pencils are hard to erase.

Artist quality pencils also tend to have more pigment than student or craft grade pencils, making the colors more intense. I found several colors lacking in this area, black being most notable. It is very difficult to get a rich black. I had better luck when using a lot of pressure on a real toothy paper but you have to burnish it to get richer color; burnishing destroys the tooth of the paper so you cannot add layers and usually produces a shiny spot. Artist pencils should produce more pigment without burnishing. This was probably what annoyed me most while using the pencils.


The colors went on fairly smoothly and blended well, with the exception of the slight crumbling already mentioned. I didn't have the best luck blending using solvent with blending stumps. The pencil seemed to disintegrate too much too fast. I will have to experiment more, maybe trying a different solvent (I used Winsor & Newton's Sansodor or applying with a paintbrush. Since they blend well without solvent, this isn't really an issue, and probably a good thing for travel. I might try using a blending pencil or burnishing pencil to see how well they work with them. Prismacolor and Magic Wand pencils worked best. Faber-Castell Polychromos also melted a bit too much as well; they faired only slightly better than the Chameleon Color Tones (need to do more testing on these too).

Solvent melted pencil (center)
The Chameleon Color Tones pencils come pre-sharpened. They do however wear down fairly quickly, even when turning the pencil while coloring, which usually helps preserve the point. Keep a sharpener handy (my favorite is by Kum).

Regarding the packaging (see video), the website claims "that Chameleon Color Tones Pencils are packed in a convenient storage case that transitions into a brilliant workstation for creativity on the go!" Although the packaging looks pretty good, and in theory should work, I personally found it annoying. There is a color chart below the pencils but my set wasn't glued well - the pencils wouldn't stay against the box so they blocked a good part of the chart. This doesn't really matter to me since I always make my own swatch chart (printed charts won't exactly match the colors anyway due to the printing process).

The package contains a number of magnets, some to hold the box closed and some to allow the box to stand while using, making it a "workstation." There are two problems here, first is that the colored pencils are sharp and if you aren't careful you will stab yourself when trying to get them out or put them away. I find this much less a problem when they are in a pencil case such as the ones by Global Art that I am currently using (see video or photo above). Having them laying down rather than sticking up makes a big difference. The second problem concerns the plastic that holds the pencils in the case. The pencils may either be slid out/in the top or pulled out/pushed into the plastic with a snap. If you slide them out or in you risk stabbing yourself on the pencils to either side. If you push them in from the front (they will snap in), you risk breaking the tip on the bottom of the plastic if you put them in too low, or they will stick up if you have them too high then you have to push them down somehow. I highly recommend putting them in a different pencil case. Sadly, this fancy container is probably adding to the cost. I wish they would have used a nice metal tin instead.

As far as pricing goes, here are some comparisons. I included only retail prices. Chameleon Color Tones may be harder to find at a discount whereas you can get some great discounts on Magic Wand pencils (Michael's coupon), Prismacolor, and Faber-Castel Polychromos. Keep in mind that Chameleon Color Tones are double sided so each pencil may be used twice as much. I included pricing for number of pencils and number of colors where I could.

CPP = Cost Per Pencil

Chameleon Color Tones $49.99 for 25 pencils (50 colors), CPP $2
Magic Wand Pencils $24.06 for 24 pencils, CPP $1
Prismacolor Pencils $98.69 for 48 pencils, CPP $2.06; $50.23 for 24 pencils, CPP $2.09
Faber-Castell Polychromos $161.25 for 60 pencils, CPP $2.69; $64.50 for 24 pencils, CPP $2.69

Considering that the professional art pencils are only $.06 to $.69 more and that the lightfast ratings are available (so you can create art that will last longer), you may want to invest in those if you need that attribute. The biggest advantage with Chameleon Color Tones is that they are more portable because they are double ended; you get 50 colors for carrying around 25 pencils. If you don't care about lightfast ratings, the Magic Wand pencils are a much better deal, although you only get 24 colors instead of 50.

Another drawback with both the Magic Wand pencils and the Chameleon Color Tones pencils is that neither are offered individually. If a pencil or color wears out, you have to buy a whole new set.


In the video I tested the pencils on toned and black papers. I chose three basic colors from the Chameleon Color Tones, red, blue, and yellow, then matched these as best as I could with the other companies' pencils. All of the pencils worked well on the toned paper but only the Faber-Castell Polychromos and Prismacolor pencils worked well on the black.


I also tested a white pencil from each company on black paper. The Prismacolor was the brightest, the Faber-Castell Polychromos and Chameleon Color Tones pencils were about the same, although I had to use more pressure with the latter, and the Magic Wand pencils were the lightest.

In Summary...

Chameleon Color Tones pencils blended well and went on fairly smoothly. They will need to be sharpened often so keep a sharpener nearby. I recommend putting them in a different pencil case maybe one for travel. They are not quite as highly pigmented as stated but are generally good. They are probably not lightfast. I recommend them as best for travel, having 25 pencils with 50 colors is really convenient plus the ability to blend smoothly without solvent is a big advantage.

Supplies
Video:



Follow my blog with Bloglovin so you won't miss any of the coloring fun!

Thursday, June 1, 2017

Karen Burniston Twist Panel Pop-Up Puppy Love Thank You Card


Karen Burniston is now in Cahoots with Riley and Company! They are making new pop-up card dies as well as other die creations. A few of her previous designs have been revamped and improved but if you liked her pop-ups before, you are going love these. She has added a lot of little extras to each set - including decorator pieces, edges, and embellishments. The whole collection works well together; it's fun to mix and match them.

This time I am making a thank you card for the host of The Gathering of Friends (a board gaming convention that I attend every year). He likes dogs so I thought it would be fun to create a doggie themed thank you card. I dug out my fairly new Doodlebug Design's Puppy Love paper pad to see what I could use. I tend to hoard Doodlebug Design paper pads, which is not a good habit when your craft space is shrinking, so I'm forcing myself to actually use the papers. Surprisingly, it only hurt a little.

Affiliate links may be included in this post. See Notice at bottom of blog.

Making the Card

1. Cut blue cardstock 4 1/4 x 11 inches; fold in half to create a top folding card base that's 4 1/4 x 5 1/2 inches. Cut kraft cardstock 3 3/4 x 5 inches. Adhere to center of card front. I used a lot of patterned paper from Puppy Love by Doodlebug Design - this is where you will find all the patterns except the gingham. Find the page with colorful dogs all over it; cut a piece 3 1/2 x 4 3/4 inches. Adhere to front of card.


2. Die cut fox/raccoon animal body (Woodland Animals) from orange cardstock. To create a collar, cut the neck area from kraft cardstock; cut off head then trim by following neck line. Trim tail of orange animal to look like a dog's tail (rounded tip and thinner as shown). Trim face to be round (i.e. cut off ears and sides of face). Use a pencil to sketch in eyes, nose, and mouth where shown. Use (alcohol marker friendly*) black pen to fill them in. *Color around one eye with Copic YR04. Alternatively you could cut a small round piece of darker orange cardstock and add an eye to it then glue it over the already drawn eye. Adhere collar. Die cut dark blue cardstock using raccoon mask eye hole. Adhere to collar as a dog tag. Find page with blue dog and green ball (love at FURst site tag). Cut out dog and tennis ball. Set aside dog for inside of card. Glue green ball under arms of orange dog. Cut two acorns from kraft cardstock; cut off tips and tops. Adhere these as ears as shown. Optional: add black Enamel Accents to eyes and nose. Set aside to dry.

The panels collapse as the card is folded. Be sure not to put any decorations on the contact areas.

3. Die cut dotted scalloped rectangle from blue cardstock. In the Doodlebug Designs Gingham-Linen Rainbow Petite Prints pad, find the matching gingham pattern. Die cut about half with same die. On inside edge, die cut with wavy dotted border. Adhere to blue dotted scalloped rectangle. Adhere dog as shown. Die cut heart (Woodland Animals) from heart patterned paper (Puppy Love pad). Adhere where shown. Optional: add Glossy Accents. Set aside to dry.

4. Cut kraft cardstock 3 3/4 x 10 1/2 inches. Die cut top and bottom using wavy dotted edge die (Twist Panel Pop-up). This will go inside the card. Watch the video below for assembly of card using blue cardstock for inside panels, kraft cardstock for arms, blue cardstock for triangle flags, doggie paper for rectangle flags (I centered a different dog at the top of each flag), hearts pattern for one heart, and dog print pattern for the other heart. I also used blue/white twine to string the flags. You may want to decorate flags before final assembly. See steps below.


5. Here is how I decorated the three blue triangle flags: die cut one small heart and one next size up (medium) heart from heart paper. Die cut a dog face with the small heart. Adhere dog face heart in center of medium sized heart. Adhere to triangle flag. Adhere small heart to triangle flag. Cut a strip of four balls from ball paper. Adhere to triangle flag lining up at top; trim excess from back.


6. From the ball paper and blue gingham paper, cut the frame side without the tab - trim off any excess. You want two single panels to cover the first two panels already created. Adhere ball panel to the first pop-up panel and the gingham to the second. Trim off border from two dogs and bird preprinted tag. Optional: round the corners with 1/4 inch corner rounder. Adhere to first panel (ball paper). For the second panel, you may decorate it with something from the paper pad, or create your own greeting as I did. I used text editing software to create the greeting and printed it on cardstock. I then die cut it with the coordinating decorator panel die. I finished it off by using a dark blue gingham strip with a row of balls adhered to it.

7. For the third panel, find the Having a ball! preprinted tag and round the corners if desired. Adhere as shown. The final panel background was cut using the decorator panel die with blue gingham. Die cut Thanks (Word Set 1 - Greetings) from black cardstock. Adhere where shown. Adhere blue dog from earlier. Cut out ball from ball paper; adhere as shown.

8. Optional: you may also decorate the back of the card using similar techniques as above. The extra cardstock on the back will also help give it a bit more support. The stamp I used for the back is from Holmes Custom - the Marino Handwritten self-inking stamp.


Supplies

Follow my blog with Bloglovin so you won't miss any of the twist pop-up fun!

Friday, May 26, 2017

Review/Comparison Viviva Colorsheets and Peerless Watercolors


This is an in-depth review of Viviva Colorsheets in comparison to Peerless watercolors. I purchased the Peerless watercolors myself but received the Viviva Colorsheets free for review; note that I contacted them because I was interested and they were kind enough to send me a sample booklet. These are my findings and opinions. I don't have any other connection to these companies. I have tried to be as honest and objective as possible.

Note: colors will likely appear different on screen than in person.

Affiliate links may be included in this post. See Notice at bottom of blog.

What They Are

Viviva Colorsheets and Peerless watercolors are watercolor sheets that contain heavily pigmented dyes. They come on a paper-type substrate. Peerless calls them films, a throwback to their history. This is how they are described in their booklet introduction: "The COLOR FILM is a heavy film of highly concentrated pure color, of intense strength and absolute solubility. This film of color is coated on one side of a special fabric that readily discharges the color the moment it comes into contact with water, or any water soluble mixture." I am not sure they are still made of fabric since the substrate feels and cuts like cardstock, and tends to peel a bit when rubbed with a wet brush. Both are transparent, with the exception of one or two colors. When looking at them, the surfaces mostly do not reflect the actual paint color; this is due to the amount of pigment in them. They also may vary in color and texture across the sheets; some even look like they have crystal-like structures on top. This does not affect performance.

When using the paints, you just need to touch a wet brush (or water brush) to the sheets. I have noticed that the Viviva Colorsheets seem to be more concentrated (or pigmented) than the Peerless in many cases. For example, I usually have to load my brush more often with Peerless to get the same strength of color that I get from one touch of Viviva. The Viviva makers claim that one set will last about as long as a standard half pan set. From the few experiences with the paint so far, I tend to believe this.



History

Viviva Colorsheets were developed by a 3rd year medical school student in India, named Aditya Vadgaonkar. Before med school, he had enjoyed watercoloring but found he didn't paint as much while attending school because of the inconvenience of carrying around pans, tubes, palettes, etc. What he wanted was a light, portable set. He developed the idea for his watercolors while studying a diagnostic technique that involved picking up a substrate from paper. It took him a year to find an expert on dyes to finally realize this idea. His brother, Rohan Vadgaonkar, also helped with branding and by setting up the supply chain. So far, they have been able to produce Viviva Colorsheets in small quantities, but in order to supply them to a larger market, they will have to invest in raw materials on a larger scale. For this, Aditya and his brother have started a campaign on Indiegogo. It is currently "funded" and they are now in production, with hopes of shipping early. With more investors, they would like to add the stretch goal at $60,000 to upgrade the Colorsheets to include a mixing area (something people have requested). Their website is www.vivivacolors.com

Peerless watercolors have been around a long time. They were developed in 1885 by Chas F. Nicholson and first published in booklet form in 1902. They are still handmade using the same process. They were originally manufactured by Peerless Color Laboratories in Rochester, New York. The current manufacturer, Creative Mode, LLC, is based in Stoughton Wisconsin, USA. Their website is www.peerlesscolor.com.


Booklet Contents and Sizes

Viviva Colorsheets come in a booklet approximately 2 7/8 x 5 1/8 inches in size. It is made up of 3 thick sheets and three thin partition pages folded to make 6 thick pages with partitions in between. Inside the book there are four sections. Sections are made up of a top page and a bottom page, with 2 colors each, for a total of 16 colors. Each color is about 1 3/4 x 2 3/8 inches in size. The color's name is below each color. The sections are color coded in staggered strips along the bottoms of the section pages, creating an index so colors can be easily found inside the book. The partition pages between each page are water resistant (there are actually two in the middle due to how it was folded together). The book is bound by stitching down the center. The booklets can be a bit off. For example, one of the color names was unreadable because the stitching ran across it - I had to flip to the other side of its fold to figure it out. Also the partition pages are not consistently cut or assembled - some are off to one side or the other. They cover the colors in most cases though. Only one of mine is slightly short such that about 1/16 or less of the colors on either side stick out beyond it. Note: even though the colors are printed on the bottoms of the sections, the printed colors will not match exactly; I highly recommend swatching the colors themselves next to the paints - this will give you a more accurate rendition.


Peerless sheets are typically 2 1/2 x 6 1/2 inches. Since these are hand made, I have found them to vary up to a quarter of an inch or so. I contacted the company about two of my sheets that were really short; they sent me replacements, so they do stand behind their products. You can see the size difference in the top photo - see the two green sheets next to the booklet. One sheet is flipped up and one down but they are lined up on the long edge (the lengths are the same, one is just further under the booklet). The Complete Edition contains 15 colors. "Complete" refers to the original set of colors, not the complete library of current colors, which contains 78. The booklet has a cover sheet, an intro page, 6 double-sided pages of instructions and information (this is the vintage text taken from the 1902 version), plus 15 pages with color "films" stuck to them. Note: they aren't really film-like; they are more like dyed paper. On the page facing each color is the color name as well as information about the color and some uses. The color names are also printed on the back of each film. The book is bound by 2 staples. In my book, I found that the films were not stuck well on the pages and in some cases a little glue had seeped onto the front sides, sticking their facing pages to them. The company told me that the glue they use will not hurt the paint and will come off with water. Some films fell out of the book when first opened. This didn't really bother me since I had planned to make my own palettes from the films anyway. I would not recommend using these paints from the book (more about that in Convenience). Peerless does make a "travel palette" but it contains about 14 or 15 loose pages plus 6 sheets of acetate for dividers (I don't know how this would be enough for the number of pages) that may be bound by a removable clip. This seems cumbersome so I bought several packs and made my own palette by cutting down the sheets.

Swatches of both Viviva Colorsheets and Peerless Watercolors may be found at the bottom of this post.


Convenience

Viviva Colorsheets come ready to take with you for travel, plein air, or studio use. You can easily hold them in one hand and manipulate the pages as you paint. The index on the bottom of the pages helps you to quickly find the color you need. The Peerless paints are not really well suited for use in their booklet. Even if you overlook the glue issues, there are no water resistant dividers, so when they get wet they will stick to their facing pages. To use them, I recommend creating your own palette. Many people have created a one page folded palette with some sort of divider, like acetate or Yupo. It usually holds 30 to 40 colors, depending on the size you cut your colors (the Peerless Bonus Pack has 40 colors and is typically the one used). Ellen Hutson has a printable palette on her blog (scroll down her page for the pdf). I created an extra 2 sided page in the middle of mine so I could have 60 colors. I might create a smaller palette in the future. Peerless does have a travel palette now; more information is listed below, under Price.


Field Experience

In addition to the tests you will see below, I took the Viviva Colorsheets with me to Washington DC on a recent trip. I sketched and painted an owl at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History as well as a scene in front of the fountain near the National Archives. As you can see by the image below, I was able to hold the paints in one hand; this allowed me to use a water brush to paint with the other hand (offscreen). I plan to use them to color a stamped image for a card in the near future; look for that here on my website.


Toxicity

Viviva Colorsheets contain mineral based dyes and a binder. The pigments used are a "trade secret" according to the producers, so I have no information about their toxicity. Since some pigments are highly toxic (e.g. vermillion, cadmium, cobalt), I recommend handling with care. The instructions inside direct you to "not ingest them" and to "please wash your hands after use" - a good rule of thumb when working with any paints. Peerless watercolors are 100% non-toxic according to their website but I still recommend thoroughly washing your hands after handling them.

Handling and Care

As noted above under Toxicity, it is recommended that you wash your hands after use. Even though the Peerless say they are non-toxic, they will still stain your hands and anything else they come in contact with (this is actually true of both paints). Trust me - the smallest amount on your hand can find its way to your work surface, projects, clothes, and even face (ask me how I know). It was the worst when created my Peerless palette; I had color all over my hands - a real mess. I had tried to keep my hands dry but the slightest moisture will activate them. Both Viviva and Peerless should be kept away from any moisture, including humidity. You may want to store them in a re-closable (zip) bag. If you have any silica gel desiccants (i.e. the small packets that warn you not to eat them), you could add them to the bag to wick moisture.

Lightfastness

Neither of these paints is lightfast, meaning you should not expose them to direct light for very long or the colors may shift and/or fade. If you would like to preserve your art, you could coat it with a UV filtering finish, frame it with UV filtering glass/plexiglas, or just scan it and print it. They are perfect for use in a sketchbook since the book will be closed most of the time, protecting the paints from light.

Price

Viviva Colorsheets: On Indiegogo the Viviva Colorsheets were selling for $15 (a 15% discount + shipping) but that option has sold out as of this writing. Currently available is the set of 2 for $27 (a 25% discount + shipping) and the Sketcher Set that includes 1 Viviva Colorsheets plus a water brush for $25 (a 15% discount + shipping), among other combinations.

Peerless: The base shipping fee starts at $2.95 for all US orders and at $13.80 for International. The Complete Edition of 15 colors sells for $15. Peerless also offers a travel palette that may be purchased full or empty. The full travel palette contains 78 colors for $60.00; the empty travel palette is $9.00. The color films in the full booklet look to be about 1 x 2 1/2 inches if the sheet dimensions are similar to the Complete Edition (this is just a guess from looking at their website photos). They include 6 clear acetate pages as partitions. The sturdy white pages come loose but may be bound with a metal clip when not in use.

Colors

Viviva Colorsheets include the following colors: Crimson, Deep Pink, Vermillion, Flesh, Chrome Yellow, Gold Ochre, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Light Green, Sap Green, Viridian, Peacock Blue, Persian Blue, Violet, Magenta, and Slate Black.

The Peerless Complete Edition contains Brilliant Yellow, Deep Yellow, Orange Yellow, Flesh Tint, Geranium Pink, Japonica Scarlet, Royal Crimson, Mahogany Brown, Sepia Brown, Light Green, Dark Green, Deep Blue, Sky Blue, Wistaria Violet, and Pearl Gray. There are 78 colors in the full range, which are sold in separate packs except for the full travel palette. See the Peerless website for other color options.

One thing to note is that within each set some colors are very similar to others. In the Viviva Colorsheets the following colors are similar: Peacock Blue and Persian Blue, Crimson and Deep Pink, and Flesh and Chrome Yellow (close on their heels is Gold Ochre). I also would like to see more difference between some of the other colors. For example, Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna: I'd like Burnt Umber to be a darker brown than it is; Sap Green and Light Green: I'd like Light Green to lean more towards blue (cooler hue), like a grass green rather than a yellow green. The Persian Blue has too much of a green tint, making it almost match the Peacock Blue. Crimson is usually more orange - this version looks more like a Deep Pink than the actual Deep Pink. Flesh is probably the worst of the bunch - the orangey hue looks nothing like flesh, with the possible exception of one person. The Burnt Umber in its current state would make a better flesh tone.

In the Peerless Complete Edition, Orange Yellow and Flesh Tint are very close, with Deep Yellow not far behind. If you expand to the full set, there are many other similarities (too many to mention here); you really don't need all the colors.


Color Comparison Between Viviva and Peerless

In general, the Viviva colors are a bit more vivid than the Peerless. The following color comparisons are as close as I could get between the two paints. Disclaimer: I own 64 of the 78 Peerless colors; the below comparisons are closest to what I own. I put the Viviva color first then described how the Peerless compared.

All the sample images are in two rows with and four columns. The top rows are the Viviva colors; the bottom rows are the Peerless colors (although the left side has a swatch of Viviva for comparison - each is labeled). The columns, going from left to right, contain: the colors, the colors with salt added, a lift test, and finally a wet in wet test (these last three are discussed below in their own sections).

You may click an image to enlarge.

Crimson: Scarlet Lake looks closest while wet but once dry, the closest colors are Tea Rose Pink and Blush Rose Pink (a combo would probably come closer). The Crimson is more vivid.

Deep Pink: since Deep Pink is similar to Viviva's Crimson, the above applies here as well. This time I tested Blush Rose Pink. The Deep Pink is slightly brighter.

Vermillion: both Orange Yellow and Flesh Tint match pretty well but I used Flesh Tint for the test.


Flesh: Cadmium Yellow is a good match.



Chrome Yellow: Daffodil Yellow is a good match.



Gold Ochre: Golden Yellow is a good match.



Burnt Umber: Bismark Brown combined with Warm Sepia would probably match best; I used Bismark Brown for the test.


Burnt Sienna: Poinsettia Red is close but has a bit more red than Burnt Sienna. Bismark Brown is also close but has a bit more yellow.

Light Green: Amber Yellow combined with Olive Green would probably match best; I used Amber Yellow for the test.


Sap Green: Olive Green is close but has more blue.



Viridian: Robin's Egg Blue is a good match.



Peacock Blue: Alice Blue is a good match, just slightly more blue (Peacock Blue leans towards the green).


Persian Blue: Alice Blue is probably closer but I did the test with Cobalt Blue. Persian Blue has too much green; it matches too closely with Peacock Blue (above).

Violet: Mauve is a good match although it is less pigmented.



Magenta: Lip Smackin' Pink was close but still more red than the Magenta.


Slate Black: Lamp Black is a good match.




Salt

I added salt to each color, let them dry, then brushed off the salt. (This is a common way to add texture to watercolor.) Most colors reacted well with the salt but there were a few exceptions. I decided to re-test them in case I didn't add enough paint (making the color was too light) or if I didn't add enough water for the salt to absorb. The Viviva Gold Ochre and the Peerless Golden Yellow showed some texture when applied more heavily. The Peerless Daffodil Yellow and Bismark Brown both are a bit too light for this technique (i.e. they don't have enough pigment) - there is faint texture but it's difficult to see. The Viviva Burnt Umber and Peerless Olive Green both color shifted in the salt. In the re-test, the Viviva Burnt Umber turned a gray color where the salt was placed. In the original test, the Peerless Olive Green, which was applied more lightly, took on a yellow green cast where the salt was placed but in the re-test ,where I used more color, the color just darkened around the salt.


Lifting

Lifting is a technique that watercolorists use to remove color for highlights, or possibly for removing mistakes. Paper can make a big difference in lifting. Watercolor paper with sizing on its surface and/or in it will tend to allow for better lifting. I find the Strathmore 400 to be an excellent lifting paper when used with traditional watercolors. Since these are dye based paints, they do tend to stain almost instantly on contact. This is something you should be aware of when using these watercolors. It will change how you paint vs. traditional watercolor.

Both Viviva and Peerless lifted pretty well, although all colors had at least some staining. Only one color of Viviva didn't lift well (Gold Ochre) while two Peerless didn't: Bismark Brown, Cobalt Blue. The next three that lifted only a little were two Peerless: Golden Yellow and Amber Yellow, as well as one Viviva: Sap Green.

Wet in Wet

All the colors moved pretty well when dropped into wet paper. Some moved better than others. A few had a bit of color separation (mostly the green colors). I was able to get blooms with both paints.

Granulation

In watercolor, granulation can happen when water is mixed with the pigment. Granulating pigments will separate from their binder when water is added and then settle into the valleys of the paper because they are heavier. These will dry to have a grainy texture. Non-granulating pigments stay more consistent with their binder when water is added, covering the paper more evenly. Being dye based, it is not surprising that neither the Viviva nor the Peerless showed much in the way of granulation.


Rewetting, Glazing/Layering, and Reactivating

When I used water across a patch of dried paint, in both cases the color was pushed away. The pushed color formed a darker line at its edge as it dried. The color reactivates when moisture is added; the thicker the color has been applied, the more it will likely reactivate. Glazing or layering is used in watercolor to build up color or to change the color. For example, a cool color may be added to shade an area. When glazing/layering colors, you will see a mix or darkening of the colors where they overlap. For best results, layers should be thin and allowed to dry completely between applications. I found these paints more finicky than traditional watercolor for glazing due to how easily they reactivated. If you would like watercolor like pigments that dry permanent, I recommend Inktense pencils or blocks - they are highly pigmented inks.


Blending and Mixing

Both paints mixed well, similar to traditional watercolor. The vibrancy remained when mixed. Note that in order to get bright violets and purples, I had to resort to using Magenta (Viviva) or Lip Smakin' Pink (Peerless) since both sets contain reds with a yellow hue (i.e. they contain more yellow so they lean slightly towards the orange). When mixed with blue, the extra yellow mutes the color produced so you get burgundy/wine/dark purple type colors. Examples of mixing are both above and below (under the Opacity color lines).


Opacity

I tested several colors of each paint over a black waterproof marker, applying it in a thick layer by saturating the brush with the paint. For the most part, both paints were very transparent. The only exception was the Viviva Chrome Yellow; it was somewhat opaque when not applied thinly.

Final Thoughts

The biggest difference between Viviva and Peerless is Viviva's convenience. Viviva Colorsheets can be used immediately, out of the package, as a portable watercolor. The Peerless travel set contains separate sheets that can't be held in one hand or manipulated easily in the field. The Peerless Complete Edition is not really usable in its booklet. If you want a smaller, convenient palette of Peerless watercolors, you need to make one yourself, which is both time consuming and messy. The Peerless are larger for about the same price, but Viviva's paints are more pigmented so they should last longer than Peerless in the same size. The Viviva producers say their set is comparable to a set of half pan watercolors. Although there are 16 colors in Viviva, vs. 15 in Peerless, some colors are similar. Overall I would consider them comparable in price. The color index at the bottom of the Viviva Colorsheets is really handy for finding a particular color.

Both sets contain inconsistencies in production, but nothing major. Neither set offers a mixing area, although there are plans to add one in Viviva's future. I highly recommending creating swatches of each color below or beside their respective paints. Printed versions rarely match actual colors.

Both sets had minor issues with shedding to some degree - bits of paper came up with the color when a wet brush was rubbed across the surface. I saw more of this with the Peerless, probably because there isn't quite as much pigment on the surface as with the Viviva.

The Viviva Colorsheets were surprisingly similar in intensity to Mermaid Markers by Jane Davenport and American Crafts (these another set of dye based paints which come in water brushes). I put them on the same page in my swatch book. I recently did a mini-review of Mermaid Markers.

I enjoyed using the Viviva Colorsheets in the field (plein air sketching). They are easily held in one hand so you are free to use the other for painting. Their small size makes them super portable - I just tucked them into my purse (pocketbook) with my small sketchbook, a waterproof black pen, and a water brush.


Supplies
  • Viviva Colorsheets
  • Peerless Watercolors: Complete Edition, Bonus Pack Large, Pretty in Pink, DrySpot
  • Custom Palette: Strathmore Watercolor Paper, Disney Mega Paper Pad SC9602, Cricut Vinyl Linen - Custom Text Cut on Cricut
  • Brush: Loew Cornell Simpatico #2 Round 821RS
  • Watercolor Paper: Strathmore 400 Series
  • Pentalic Aqua Journal
  • Moleskine Art Plus Sketchbook
  • Salt: Morton Course Kosher Salt

Follow my blog with Bloglovin so you won't miss any of the watercolor fun!